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Like most cheap Chinese storefronts, King Wok puts forth a wide-angled menu: Szechuan, Cantonese, and Hunan dishes are among the more than 150 items available. The predominant influence is American-Chinese, especially through staples like egg rolls, chow mein, chicken fried rice, and egg foo young. As with many like restaurants, the clientele is equally interested in fast-food items so chicken wings and fries are big sellers. Actual Chinese flavors tend to be subordinate. The hot and sour soup, served from a tureen next to the front counter, benefits from crisp water chestnuts, yet never summons up any tanginess or spice. Chicken meat is tender but the accompanying garlic sauce is really just brown sauce with a touch more sweetness. A faded lightbox of a lakeside pagoda is the sole decoration. Such a cheerless interior simply encourages takeout or delivery. — Ethan Wolff

Chicken wings with French fries, $3.60; small chicken with broccoli, $5.45