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Kings' Carriage House plays up its rustic charm and hunting-lodge feel with yellow-painted original brick walls, covered with enamel plates and prints of New England fox hunts, plus several buck heads. The tiny dining room seats fewer than 16 polo players and investment bankers, with jazzed-up wives or dates on their arms. Dinner is prix fixe only, with supplemental charges for certain dishes. Nothing strays too far from traditional American food, but the emphasis is decidedly New England regional, with ingredients like goat cheese, quail, lamb, and duck. Italian or French accents make appearances. Eating here is, when you order right, a good marriage of meat and sweet. The grilled prosciutto-wrapped quail's saltiness, for example, is offset nicely by crunchy caramelized figs and port wine syrup. The downside: The sweet fruit- or wine-based sauces in most dishes sometimes obscure the flavor of the meat. One exception is the tender grilled loin of lamb with a crunchy pepper crust, cleverly paired with artichoke potato purée. Certain desserts are similarly well-executed. Warm white chocolate soufflé cake, for example, is a heavenly concoction oozing eggy, white-chocolaty dough. — Timothy Cooper

Afternoon tea is served every day from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m., by reservation only. Lunch is a two-course prix-fixe menu.

Grilled prosciutto wrapped quail; warm white chocolate soufflé cake