The wooden façade and gold-block lettering of the exterior are distinctly Williamsburg, and the Brooklyn touches continue inside: wooden tables, a vaulted tin ceiling, and a ‘90s alternative playlist. Greens from the back garden patio make their way into dishes and cocktails, and the soy sauce, made by fourth-generation producers in China’s Pearl River Delta just for the restaurant, is dispensed by tap. The stylish design comes courtesy of Ian McPheely, who has worked on McNally projects like Cherche Midi and Schiller’s Liquor Bar (maybe they both rest in peace) and the Pan-Chinese menu includes plenty of comfort-food staples. Familiar fare like dan dan egg noodles and steamed whole fish in a light, fragrant black-bean sauce with scallions satisfies, but more playful creations like mock eel made from battered strips of shiitake mushrooms and the habit-forming prawn fries are even better. A Buttermilk Channel vet runs the bar, serving cocktails like the lightly acidic Buddha’s Hand and a Mai Tai on tap.