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The first food project of the Israeli-Austrian artist Zipora Fried, Kinski does double duty as both a coffee shop and a sit-down restaurant serving unpretentious Austrian fare like sausages, sandwiches made on dark bread, and the dumplings known as knodel. The small spot’s minimalist look – three two-tops and a large communal table made from reclaimed wood, plywood floor and walls and wire light fixtures – is, slightly bizarrely, modeled after a rustic Austrian ski lodge. The coffee menu features Viennese specialties like eispanner – a double espresso with whipped cream -- and something dubbed “Viennese iced coffee, an espresso-ice-cream concoction that makes a nice dessert.” The knodel, however, intended as the showcase dish, fall short. A recent visit found the cheese version oddly dense and the spaetzle, a close cousin, flavorless and gummy. Better to stick to coffee and dessert here: all is forgiven with a plate of the excellent kaiserscherrem, or Austrian pancake, served with fruit preserves. — Jenny Miller

Kaiserschmarren $9.50.