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The fusiony menu is the most cohesive thing about this Japanese-Peruvian eatery. The bi-level space marries rustic details and a futuristic, clubby vibe—blue, red, purple, and green light emanates from every crevice—and the resulting look is somewhere between a hotel karaoke bar and a Tokyo strip club. Kión seems better suited as a sip-and-snack spot than a multi-course restaurant. Most of the dishes are small-plate affairs—a plus because it takes some trial and error to suss out the menu's strengths. A generous ceviche tasting, for example, includes some fish drenched with too much lime, but others seasoned with a perfect balance of coconut and ginger. Sushi is more consistent, even with creative combinations like a spider roll with soft-shell crab, asparagus, and goat cheese, or the rainbow roll, a colorful pinwheel of hamachi, salmon, tuna, fluke, crab ceviche, cucumber, avocado, mango, and plantain. Miso overwhelms a pork ramen soup, yet when brushed on sea bass, it adds just the right twist of flavor. The side of quinoa with the latter dish shows how two far-flung cuisines can be deliciously complementary. — Kathleen Squires

Sea bass, $25; dragon roll, $11