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The boutique hotel 60 Thompson isn't quite the Bangkok Four Seasons, but for their new chef [Ian Chalermkittichai], the proprietors (who also own Indochine and Republic) have attempted to create a kind of mini Soho facsimile. The darkened, feng shui-approved room has been sheathed with tasteful wood frames and swags of Thai silk. Luminous bottled orchids decorate the front of the room, along with many auspicious Buddhas and a glassed-in birdcage housing an exotic population of goldfish. The dining room is centered, more or less, on a limpid reflecting pool, floating with lit candles and water lilies that the wait staff keeps pushing back and forth, possibly to give the impression that we're all drifting down the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, on some grand royal barge. This regal impression evaporates a little with the appearance of disposable Japanese chopsticks at every table (Thais mainly use forks and spoons), a fact that doesn't necessarily blunt the impact of the fine house fish cakes, which are stacked, here, like blocks of sugar and served with a tangy red-onion chutney. True Thai or not, a lot of the food at Kittichai tastes awfully good. — Adam Platt

Lucky coins are taped under many of the tables.

Prix-Fixe Lunch
Daily, $20

Pre-Theater Prix-Fixe Dinner
Daily, 5:30 p.m.—7:30 p.m.; $35

Fish cakes, $11; barbeque back ribs, $14; beef carpaccio with herb salad, $14; whole crispy fish, $32; flourless chocolate cake, $9; ice cream and sorbet, $9

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (10/25/04)

Best of New York Awards

• Best Manhattan Thai Restaurant (2005)
• Dream Meals (2005)

Featured In

• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Kittichai

• Sticky Rice (2005)
• Spicy Thai Beef Salad With Long Beans (2005)
• Tapioca Pearl (2005)