- Critics’ Pick
- German/Austrian Bistro $19-$30
200 Ninth Ave.
New York, NY 10011
- Neighborhood: Chelsea
- Phone: 212-633-8033
Klee Brasserie, which opened in a small bistrolike space near the busy intersection of Ninth Avenue and 23rd Street, represents a casual amalgamation of fashionable restaurant conceits. There is the brasserie reference, which means you can enjoy blue-plate specials on different days of the week (good slow-roasted lamb on Saturdays, not-so-good "Viennese fried chicken" on Mondays) and a properly hearty selection of foreign beers (Kölsch Reisdorf from Germany, Saison Dupont from Belgium). There is the earthy, overlarge menu laced with trendy Alsatian-Austrian recipes (Klee means "clover" in German), and sections devoted to increasingly untrendy genres like Small Bites, Wood Stone Oven, and Mesquite Grill. The bar serves archly named cocktails ("the Grape"), in the manner of many downtown bars these days, and the room is made to feel stylishly casual in the usual way, with the presence of lots of blond, well-carpentered wood.
- Enjoy These Corn-Crazed Menus (19/08/07)
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