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After training in Switzerland then cooking in kitchens across Europe, Irish-born chef Damien Brassel opened up his own cozy boîte Stateside with an ever-changing menu he describes as modern European. The favored techniques—braising, poaching, reducing—may be unmistakably French, but Brassel also nods to his heritage with hearty slabs of Celtic seven-grain bread (for sale by the loaf) and a chocolate soufflé cake that gets paired with raspberry stout. The oversize square plates seem a little fancy for the rustic interior, but they also underscore the culinary aspirations which have resulted in sublime appetizers like cured salmon with baby pear and seaweed salad and overshot entrées like sea bass with sour grapefruit and shallot vinaigrette. — Alexandra Vallis

A six-course tasting menu is available nightly for $45 and a three-course prix fixe is offered every night before 7 p.m. for $24.