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Kobma Thai may get as packed as its trendier Meatpacking District neighbors, but it feels worlds away, thanks to a no-frills décor, terrific bang-for-your-buck, and an unassuming attitude. Here the food takes its rightful place at center stage, with all the classic Thai flavors—peanut sauce, red and green curries, lemon grass, chilis—given their due. The chili-shaped spicy icon pops up frequently on the menu, so consider yourself forewarned (though you can always request a dish in a milder dose). If no-holds-barred spiciness signals Kobma's authenticity, so does its selection of fabulous noodles from tried-and-true pad thai to chicken, beef, pork, and seafood variations of laad na (sautéed wide noodles), the more flavorful pad see ell (pan-fried wide noodles), and soup noodles. Bamboo shoots and a handful of leafy potted plants are the only Far East touches in the low-ceilinged, white-walled space. Small spotlights hang above the wooden tables and there's a fully stocked, if not particularly inviting, bar in back. Ultimately, it's the wonderfully refreshing, frothy Thai ice tea that brings the best relief to a mouth full of such sweet and hot sensations. — Kate Appleton

Beef sautéed with peanut sauce, $11; chicken pad see ell, $7.50; homemade shrimp pancake, $5