A type of griddled roti that’s chopped into almost spaetzlelike pieces and stir-fried with eggs and spices, meat or seafood curry, and vegetables. Think fried rice without the rice and also about 100 times hotter, the super-absorbent flatbread soaking up all the incendiary flavor enhancers like a high-octane sponge. That’s the Sri Lankan street-food specialty called kottu, and this is its lively, three-table, six-barstool Lower East Side house of pain. Each of the seven kottu varieties on offer, from Deviled Beef to Tofu Blast, is addictively spicy and unquestionably not safe for baby palates. By now, it’s pretty generally agreed that there is no limit to what single-item-menu foodstuff a would-be fast-casual tycoon can attempt to build a restaurant concept around. Still, some choices are better than others, and this is a good one.