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The thrumming club music, the comely counter girls, the square-cut pies freighted with artisanal ingredients all shout, “We’re not just another slice joint!” And it’s not. Open till the wee hours on weekends, Krunch aims to be a party scene unto itself. Too bad there’s only seating for seventeen, because the pizza quality is good enough to draw droves. Pizza aficionados will quibble about the crust, thinner and smaller than a Sicilian square, less pliable than a prototypical New York wedge. It also lacks the satisfying crackle that the eatery’s name would suggest. But as with the trendy bamboo wall panels and MoMA-chic decor, there’s art in the surface details: Toppings are exciting, fresh, and almost uniformly great. The Salsiccia carries a bounty of homemade sausage, garlic, and roasted peppers; the shrimp pesto pie smacks with oil-cured olives, lemon, red onion, and nicely cooked baby shrimp. Commendable salads and pastas, like the deliciously oily orecchiette with broccoli rabe, counter the pizza menu. And for dessert, there’s the Nutella Krunch, hazelnut spread and shavings of pistachio and white chocolate atop a crisp pastry square. Like everything else at Krunch, it’s lip-smacking, and attractive to boot. — Jon Steinberg

Krunch Pizza Bar has no connection to the chain of city gyms that shares its name, unless workout hours can be measured in slices consumed.

Salsiccia pie, $25.75; orecchiette with broccoli rabe, $10; Nutella Krunch pie, $32

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