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A Chinese takeout force that has sent countless little white cartons into Clinton Hill homes since 1976, Kum Kau also offers a basic dining room where customers will find a fork and spoon on the table instead of chopsticks. The multipage menu includes all the American Chinese standards. This can make finding standout dishes difficult, but fried-rice variations and tangy hot-and-sour soup are always safe bets. All portions are abundant in size and never skimpy on meat or vegetables. The General Tso's shrimp are ample in both number and plumpness (though they could stand to be crispier), and nestled in a sticky-sweet gravy that's spicier than the typical version. Dishes here can be prepared without MSG—or starch, salt, and sugar, for that matter—upon request. — Thayer McClanahan

To reach the takeout line directly, call 718-638-1850. Note: Cash only for pickup.

General Tso’s shrimp, $13; chicken Hunan style, $11; Buddha’s delight, $8.25