What makes this one of our favorite omakase sushi joints in the city? Let’s start with the clean, cubbyhole-size room, which looks like it’s been beamed in from one of the more discreetly posh neighborhoods of Tokyo. Then there’s the impeccably sourced fish — sea scallops tipped with yuzu, silvery slices of jack fish and sardines. Whenever I’m asked, as I was the other day, “for a good sushi place, not too anal, and not bank-busting,” I direct people to this snug, refreshingly unpretentious omakase cubbyhole off Tompkins Square Park. Norihiro Ishizuka serves his relatively affordable menu (12 pieces of sushi, appetizer, soup, and dessert) with a happy smile, one piece at a time. Everything is first-rate, but the house specialty is the toro, which comes in four different grades. It’s a rare deal in this omakase-addled town.