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338 E. 92nd St. ,
New York, NY 10128
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Turquoise-colored walls and paper-maché dolls lend a folksy vibe to this Yorkville restaurant where meatloaf, Cajun shrimp, and pork burritos share menu space with spring rolls and tempura. This something-for-everyone approach often leads to disappointing results. Chunks of meat doused in a bland, gummy sauce is a poor rendition of pork Adobo, and the classic Spanish dish, shrimp Ajillo—known for its oily texture and mellow garlic aroma—is lost in translation to rubbery shellfish with an oppressive raw-garlic flavor. Still, the bar shows a rare finesse with its cocktails. A Sidecar blends brandy and triple-sec with a potent dose of lemon, cutting the drink’s potentially cloying sweetness. Other drinks benefit from fresh herbs and house-squeezed juices.
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