Chino-Latino restaurants, of which La Dinastia is one of the city’s best exemplars, aren’t really fusion places but rather split personalities where one half is Spanish; the other, Chinese. Each cuisine excels at this stark, well-lit, no-frills restaurant thanks to some judicious cooking: The egg foo young is always light and airy; the breaded steak is delicate as crème brûlée. Better still, the portions are big and the prices rock-bottom: A huge dinner of porky spare ribs, spicy picadillo over yellow rice, thick, golden pork chops bounded by golden arcs of fat (and served with crispy plantains), and fried rice studded with thick pieces of moist white chicken washed down with glasses of boxed wine never seems to cost more than $40. Service is brisk and the double rows of diner-like booths lining both walls are spacious and comfortable.
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