- Critics’ Pick
La Esquina Brasserie & Tequila Bar
- Mexican $18-$28
114 Kenmare St.
New York, NY 10012
- Neighborhood: Nolita
- Phone: 646-613-7100
The reward is dining in a Mexican dungeon as styled for a Vogue shoot, complete with metalwork, distressed stone walls, and water dripping on the back of your neck (though the owners can probably thank the air conditioner for the added atmospherics). Making up the grinning crowd at secluded booths and in private cells (?): a healthy mix of models, cougars, and maybe John Mayer picking on Vuelve a la Vida, fresh tuna and shelfish ceviche, with roasted tomatoes, and chipotle chilis; pretty little tacos with perfect accompaniments (grilled steak and charred onions, veal tongue with avocado cream); blistered green beans; or a plate of beautifully charred shrimp. If the food sounds light, you’re right; it’s playing to the delicious crowd.
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