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The long, shiny windows are this Village restaurant's best advertisement. Through the sparkling panes that make up two corners of the convivial spot, passers-by catch the glimmer of candlelight, the roar of the wood-burning oven's open flame, and the animated smiles of the established, glamorous patrons. The scene is even more enticing inside with tile-topped tables, copper trays lining a non-windowed wall, and a Northern Italian menu highlighted by substantial portions of pasta and oven-fired meats and fish. A generous, vegetable-heavy antipasto includes zucchini, Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, cauliflower, fennel, smoked mozzarella and proscioutto, or rosy, tender beef carpaccio, piled with peppery arugula and misted with lemon. Pansotti, a triangular ravioli stuffed with spinach and cheese in a creamy walnut sauce, particularly stands out on the pasta list, and tagliata, sliced sirloin steak sprinkled with rosemary, takes on a distinctive, cured-like edge from the oven. Hungry couples tend to gravitate toward the mixed grill for two, with baby lamb chops, Italian sweet sausages, and a daily fish. The best part of the experience, however, goes back to those windows, with their advantageous people-watching and the delicious satisfaction of finally being on the inside looking out. — Kathleen Squires

Pansotti al tocco di noci, $15.50; beef carpaccio, $12.50