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Even if you had a Puerto Rican grandmother, you'd be lucky if she could whip up food as hearty and soul-soothing as these sand-castle-size heaps of garlicky mofongo, densely packed with plantain and fried pork; nicely seasoned stews with fork-tender meat; heaping helpings of perfect rice and beans (white, red, pink, or chickpeas); crispy, golden-brown fried pork chops; and maduros sweet enough to give you cavities. And if you know La Fonda only from the days when a sign with the names of the previous owners, Gina y George, defiantly hung outside, you'll be amazed at the transformation. Not only have brothers-and-owners Jorge and Roberto Ayala annexed the store next door and renovated both spaces into a comfortable two-room restaurant decorated with vibrant Puerto Rican art, but they've finally changed the sign. Happily, the ebullient El Barrio—community—center vibe and the Latin-love-song soundtrack haven't changed a bit. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

The FB Lounge, located across the street at 172 E. 106th St.,  holds Latin Jazz performances on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights.

Mofongo with plantain and fried pork, $10; stews with meat,$10; pork chops,$10