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La Fusta is all about meat, and it's a wake-up call for those who have become bored with the same old expensive and bland Manhattan steaks. Here you can eat just about every part of the cow in the bountiful mixed grill, or opt for high-quality steaks at half Midtown’s going rate. Everything comes with a wonderfully charred and caramelized crust, and once you taste the chimichurri sauce (Argentina's answer to ketchup: olive oil, vinegar, parsley, oregano, onion, garlic, salt, cayenne, and red pepper), you'll conclude that it should be mandatory in all restaurants that serve beef.  (La Fusta, in the shadow of Elmhurst Hospital, is New York's oldest Argentinean restaurant, open since 1971. ) — Steven A. Shaw