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In a neighborhood replete with Italian spots, La Grolla Ristorante distinguishes itself by serving knowing locals traditional and innovative dishes from Valle D'Aosta, Italy's smallest region (nestled between France, Switzerland and the Piedmont). The cozy dining room is amber-hued, and accented with copper coffee warmers and grappa distillers. Its earthy alpine cuisine abounds with roasted and stewed meats and wild game, sausages, mushrooms, nuts, cream, and cheeses. Pastas in numerous forms are topped with hearty ragùs; in contrast, delicate ravioli, plumped with spinach and airy ricotta, are daubed with a silky walnut cream sauce that's downright ethereal. While shrimp wrapped in speck and venison stewed with blueberries and porcini mushrooms spice up the menu, the real kicker is the coffee service, featuring grappa-fortified espresso spiced with juniper berries, orange peel, and chopped pears. — Michael Anstendig

The weekday two-course prix-fixe lunch menu ($14.95) offers antipasti and entrées like sautéed salmon and chicken, numerous pastas, and pizzas. On weekends, there's a prix-fixe brunch ($9.95) with eggs, omelette, and frittatas; cocktail are not included.

Coniglio, $20.50; torta ricotta, $7; la grolla coffee service, $7