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On a charm-free, windswept corner, La Lunchonette beckons with Hernando's Hideaway intrigue. It could be because Jean-François Fraysse, the chef-owner, radiates the passion of a tamed romantic rascal. Devoted to his wife, Melva, and two kids, he cooks as if each meal were testament of his love for them. His rabbit with prunes, muskily sweet venison studded with quince, cassoulet to get lost in, and golden-glazed tarte Tatin are all surefire seductions. The next time you bemoan the trysts and turns one has to go through on this island to find a romantic spot with more than a votive candle, find that too-low window set in an unassuming door, and turn the knob. — Hal Rubenstein