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Opening in 2006 in an area already saturated with pizzerias, La Nonna smartly straddles the roles of fresh slice joint and (pleasantly) suburbanite trattoria. The clay-colored tile floor, wood tables and wicker-bottomed chairs, and a partial terra cotta roof built to jut over the gas oven create a rustic setting that's less romantic than it is suitable for casual dinners with visiting parents. A wide path down the center of the modest space reserves a b-line to the display case of thin-crust pizzas with flat white gobs of melted fresh mozzarella and heat-wilted basil, low-brow pies like cubed chicken cutlet and ham and pineapple, and stellar square Grandma slices with dried oregano crushed over the top. If herbs and real cheese didn't already tip you off, thoughtful touches like San Pellegrino sodas (Limonata, Aranciata, etc.) and a frilly wire holder for the usual lineup of seasonings (grated Parmesan, hot pepper flakes, and more) indicate the level of attention that goes into the oven and makes for one of the best slices on Bedford Avenue. At dinner, there's table service for the myriad other options on the menu, including large salads like the Portobello with tender shaved mushrooms and sliced grilled chicken, Italian-meat-stuffed panini, and an slew of additional 12-inch made-to-order pies including the Estiva, a seasoned crust baked with mozzarella then topped with a chopped mixed green salad and cherry tomatoes in a slightly sweet balsamic vinaigrette. Pastas come with simple sauces you can tell are housemade -- fresh tomato, pesto, bolognese--and the menu gets more ambitious with daily specials that might include crab cakes or mahi mahi with clams. However refined the main courses go, there's always fried calamari and mozzarella sticks to bring back that family pizzeria feel. — Alexandra Vallis

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