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A colorful Mexicali cantina adjoined to an always-busy burrito bar, La Taqueria was an early south-of-the-border restaurant in a neighborhood now fairly crawling with them. And though newer (and better) restaurants like Maria’s Mexican Bistro, Los Pollitos II, and Lobo have edged in on its turf, La Taqueria and its offspring Rachel’s, farther south on Fifth Avenue, still offer a funky, festive dining experience. A parade of politically tinged, gallery-worthy murals by local artist Jeramy Turner cover the walls; a ceiling painted vibrant Baja blue is festooned with hanging metal stars; and wooden tables inlaid with colorful tiles feel custom-made for bottles of cerveza and pitchers of margaritas. The brainchild of Los Angeles–born Marty Medina, La Taqueria’s menu dances around the map, moving from Oaxacan-style steaks greasily smothered with melted Cheddar to San Francisco Mission–inspired burritos, weighed down with whole beans, rice, and a variety of meats, all of which literally burst from the seams of flimsy flour tortillas. On the sit-down menu are enchiladas, fish entrées, and steaks; the takeout menu is limited to more successful mainstays, like tacos, burritos, and platters of fajitas. — Jon Steinberg

Mole chicken enchilada, $13.95; grilled-shrimp salad, $12.95