La Vara

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82 Good

Celebrated chefs turn their Spanish expertise toward Moorish and Jewish recipes.

268 Clinton St., Brooklyn, NY, 11201

718-422-0065

http://www.lavarany.com/

Reserve on OpenTable

Known For

The lowdown

At this narrow, bustling Cobble Hill restaurant, noted tapas experts Alex Raij and her husband, Eder Montero turn their attention to the intertwining influences of the Moorish and Jewish traditions on Spanish cuisine. Pay attention to the finger-size pica pica and frito dishes, which include a variety of crisp croquettes (try the croquette of the day, whatever it happens to be), plates of grilled chicken hearts (a Gibraltar speciality), and tiny frizzled artichokes garnished with anchovy aïoli in the Roman “alla giudia” style. That great un-kosher Spanish classic, suckling pig, shows up as an occasional special, and we suggest you complement it (if you’re feeling guilty) with a wedge of classic torta Santiago Passover almond cake, or a date-and-walnut-filled “egipico” tart, served with lemon curd and topped with a dollop of sweet whipped cream.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesCroquette of the day; lamb’s breast with date jam; suckling pig; egipcio.

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized