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From a fleet of ovens comes a dizzying array of golden-crusted pizzas and focaccia at this friendly family restaurant. "Grandma's," "upside-down," deep-dish, thin-crust, and stuffed are a few of the styles on offer, topped or filled with everything from pepperoni to oven-roasted potatoes. Choose imported bufala or the housemade mozzarella on your margherita pie, and try to make room for the wealth of Italian-American antipasti, pastas, salads, and main courses. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld