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The exterior appears foreboding: Four stark-white, looming statues (with urns on their heads) stand sentry, and the glass door lined with bamboo slats makes a glimpse of the great things going on inside impossible. Step into Lakruwana, though, and pretty touches multiply — exposed thick-wood-beam ceilings, brick walls hung with woven baskets, oversize prints of ancient Sri Lankan caricatures, and purple-and-gold woven-straw utensil holders. Once seated, you'll find that the graciousness of owner Lakruwana Wijesinghe makes you want to stick around. Repeat visitors come for the traditional, spice-packed meals from the Isle of Gems, like lamprie — basmati rice layered with neat little piles of rich, stewy eggplant, caramelized onions, tomato, cashews, green beans, and potatoes. Lentil soup is nearly dessertlike; served in a fired-clay bowl with a charmingly carved wooden spoon, the puréed red legumes turn goldenrod in color and are enriched by sweet coconut milk. Sweet! Everything’s irresistible — including the prices. — Amy Zavatto

Lamprie, $3.50; chicken-spinach curry, $8.95; lentil soup $4.95