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City gardener. Fitness guru. Red sauce entrepreneur. The man who can claim all three of these monikers comfortably is Anthony Macagnone, the former owner of a plant shop, and currently, a fitness studio, and this Italian restaurant (among others). A visit to this classic 1904 storefront suggests he could add “preservationist” to the list. Lanza’s retains old-school charm amid a constantly changing neighborhood. A stained-glass façade displays the first vestiges of days gone by; a pressed tin ceiling and faux wallpaper round out the dining room’s antique ornamentation. The Southern Italian menu seems dated at first glance, and it is, but that’s a good thing for the homesick Italian-Americans coming in to remember yesteryear. And the homey saucing, from the pink vodka slathering penne to a rich Bolognese dotting rings of tortellini, sends the good memories flooding back. Don’t be surprised if you find a vine stem in the marinara gravy for the soft, well-seasoned meatballs—it’s a testament to the sauce’s true tomatoey taste, not to mention another authentic tradition. — Kathleen Squires

Mon.—Sat., 4 p.m.—6:30 p.m.; Sun., 3:30 p.m.—5:30 p.m.; three-courses plus coffee, $23.50

Mozzarella in carozza, $9.95; meatballs, $10.50; penne vodka, $13.95