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Standout pizzas like the marscapone with portobello mushrooms, gorgonzola, and truffle oil, a commitment to healthy ingredients like unbleached, unbromated flour, plus a beer selection of six drafts and as many bottles curated by L'asso's own beer sommelier, or “The Wild Cicerone”, Thomas Barris, make for a great neighborhood restaurant serving some of Manhattan’s top pies. Pizzas are fired in a unique double-mouth oven flaring up hardwoods and spitting out over twenty varieties, the 12- and 21-inch pies created in the round Neapolitan way, and the 29-inchers in oblong, in the Roman style. A New York deep dish is also offered, though call ahead for this one, as it takes 45 minutes to cook. Whatever you choose, even the most basic Margherita rises above most of the fare at the red-sauce joints nearby. — Jeff Orlick

Reservations are accepted for groups of five or more.

12” Margherita pizza, $13; Eda's meatballs, $15, insalata L'asso, $13