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L’Asso, which means “the ace” in Italian, clearly wants to trump the local pizzeria competition. Out of this spare restaurant’s wood-fired brick oven come not only the usual suspects but pies variously topped with zucchini flowers and truffle oil, three types of onions, and five types of cheeses. A familiar array of pasta, panini, and main courses rounds out the menu. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld