Profile

Over the centuries the Jews of the Roman ghetto, living in relative poverty and isolation, developed a distinctive cuisine: rosemary, garlic, olive oil, and white vinegar became the foundations for specialitebraica, Hebraic specialties, characterized by simple, elegant preparations. The Lattanzi family has brought this cuisine to Restaurant Row, with Roman-Jewish versions of antipasti, pasta, meat, and fish available every night after 8pm–once the pre-theater crowd has cleared out. The signature appetizer is carciofi alla giudia, a trio of bronzed artichoke florets grilled in a light olive oil and garlic. Artichokes reappear in the layers of the lasagne verdi, slabs of homemade spinach noodles alternating with layers of tangy tomato and onion sauce. Cameos of fennel, pine nut, and even raisin can appear, as in the trigliette all'Ebraica, where sweet raisins balance the sour of vinegar in a red snapper recipe that dates to the Middle Ages. Lattanzi's menu isn't limited to the ghetto; hearty Roman-style fare (the mainstay of the pre-theater menu) is also available. The meals are served in a sprawling ground-floor brownstone space, where white napkins are draped over light fixtures, illuminating wooden rafters, exposed brick walls, vintage photos of Rome, and a fresco-style painting of Roman citizens. — Ethan Wolff

Minestrone, $10; carciofi alla giudia, $15; lasagne verdi, $19; costolette di agnello, $34