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This tiny spot from a former La Goulue chef gets its name from the long wraparound counter that spans its space offering a view of the open kitchen. A recent scallops starter comes with three delicious and perfectly cooked pieces surrounding garlic-parsley butter; tuna tartare gets some Japanese flair with intermixed crunchy tempura flakes; and pan-seared NY strip steak comes in a mild sauce, until you bite into an actual peppercorn. Tender braised short ribs top well-cooked risotto, and the large pork chops come breaded in polenta, adding a nice crunch but detracting from the flavor. The perfectly executed crème brûlée mixes the crunch of the thin, sweet caramel with the rich custard underneath. Weekend brunch is a party, where large groups crowd into the front banquettes with glasses of bubbly. During warm months, there’s a charming back garden. — Daniel Benjamin

Short rib risotto, $18