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At this Cornelia Street staple—on a leafily romantic restaurant row that also includes Home, Po, and the Cornelia Street Café—chef Alioune Ndiaye cooks French bistro classics with an emphasis on meat and fish. Start with seasonal crab cakes and then head straight for—what else?—le gigot, a no-nonsense yet delectable leg of lamb served with flageolets. What's most welcoming about Le Gigot, aside from its quaint dozen tables and delightful staff, is its resemblance to one of those anonymous yet revelatory Parisian bistros untrammeled by the tourist crowd that you happen to stumble into on a rainy Saturday night in the Sixteenth Arrondissement. Don't tell a soul. — Andy Bailey

Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—2:30 p.m.

Roast leg of lamb with flageolets, $27; crab cakes, market price