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Nestled among brownstones on a side street of Clinton Hill, Le Grand Dakar emphasizes the global influence on Senegalese cuisine with a hip insouciance that makes it worth the venture. The warm-toned, high-windowed space is as comfortably uncluttered as the menu, and its scattering of African art and wood accents complement the comfy entrees and unpretentious side dishes. Don't be lulled, though—the cooking exhibits an understated panache. The succulent, squash-like baked plantain papillote, which spills decoratively out of its peel, is sweet enough to be dessert; in fact, it outshines the Paris Dakar, a serviceable apple-mango galette. A piquant, lemony confit of the lamb-rib yassa may have you gnawing the bone despite the meat's peak tenderness, while the grilled beef kafta (sans skewer) is graced with an elusive spiciness. The tamarind slaw garnish may be bland, but entrées as distinctive as these don't need the competition anyway. — Mark Holcomb

Sat.—Sun., 11 a.m.—5 p.m.

Plantain papillote, $6; lamb yassa, $15; kafta, $10