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A quiet haven of understated Gallic class since 1995, Le Jardin has been a popular drop-in joint for upper-crust locals like David Bowie and Iman since long before this neighborhood was rechristened NoLita. The interior's grid-like layout and conservative white-tablecloth-and-water-glass settings might fool you into thinking this is the place to take your parents to justify your film-studies master's. But the spacious candlelit back garden under a latticed ceiling of wine-grape leaves is where you'll want to woo that mysterious European exchange student. Fears that the kitchen would suffer after executive chef Gerard Maurice's departure turned out to be unfounded, and the classic French menu remains as hearty as ever. Pass over the often recommended but too robust tomato-based bouillabaisse in favor of the coq au vin—it's like drowning in velvet soup. — Michael Y. Park

Sat.—Sun., noon—3:30 p.m.

Bouillabaisse, $24; coq au vin, $19; terrine de foie gras, $19