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Le Miu’s pedigree is impressive, with Nobu 57, Megu, and Moto on the résumés of its four chefs. The restaurant takes its cue from those places, serving innovative, top-flight sushi in modernist digs. The chefs take pride in daily specials, with platters and prix-fixe menus that highlight the current catch. Fashionable foam, made of white soy, adds a creamy aspect to the raw bar’s fish tartars. Foam returns in the kitchen’s black cod, which comes in a pocket of savory philo crust. Straight-up rolls are competent; more exciting are experimental dishes, like sun-dried tomato and mozzarella accompanying squares of spicy salmon sushi, or soy gel on smoky sea urchin. Departing from the mega-Asian trend, the space itself is intimate: Banquettes run the length of the room, across from a row of tables for two, and worn wooden floors soften the industrial aspect of exposed ceiling vents and iron front doors. Electric yellow and lime-green lighting illuminates rotating wall art, and tableware is stylish, with tall silver water decanters and chopstick rests in the form of stylized rabbits. In a nod to Avenue A priorities, the drinking bar is up front and the sushi bar in back, an arrangement that minimizes distractions for serious eaters. — Ethan Wolff

Black cod with philo jacket, $18; new style sashimi platter, $35