Profile

This colossal, northernmost outpost of the Tour de France restaurant group (French Roast, Nice Matin) has a bistro menu that’s allegedly a testimonial to the cuisine of the Loire Valley. In truth, it reads as plain, generic French. That’s not a bad thing for the resident students and locals; their hordes ebb and flow happily from the huge, dimly lit dining room, which is decorated with a faux-punched tin ceiling and red leather chairs. Large mirrors sketched with obligatory menu listings hang along the dark wood interior. Traditional meat dishes like duck confit and coq au vin are executed with more authority than the lackluster seafood selections, while the wine and beer lists offer an impressive array of Loire wines and imported Belgian lambics. Ultimately, it’s dessert that really shines here. Unusual pastries like pistachio éclairs and classics like crème brûlée are prepared daily on the premises, with a fresh crêpe-maker sealing the deal. In warmer weather, patrons can take in the streetside goings-on along with their croques madames, as the bistro’s bustle extends onto a sizable sidewalk café. — Tim O'Keefe

Brunch is extremely popular, but reservations are not accepted during these hours.

Terrine de foie gras maison, $15; confit de canard, $16.95