Mon-Fri, 11:30am-11pm; Sat-Sun, 11am-4pm and 5pm-11pm
F, G at Fort Hamilton Pkwy.
This horsey French/Canadian public house brightens the corner of an otherwise demure Windsor Terrace block between the park and the cemetery. Le Paddock has a come-as-you-are atmosphere and a vino-centric menu of slightly-beyond-the-standards. The spot fills an oblong space framed by dark wood and antique horse trinkets; an antler-frame chandelier warms the room. The owners hail from La Rochelle and Montreal, which explains a menu headed by sturdy appetizers like a hummus and flatbread combo, and a line of deviled eggs, their creamy whipped yolk topped by a chili/radish kick. Classic onion soup and a distinctive charcuterie and cheese selection make way for upscale burgers, steaks, and a pizza list with room for unusual options like Flammenkuech, an Alsatian brick-oven pie topped with leeks, bacon, and Swiss gruyere. A lamb burger on an oversize brioche bun hides delicious pockets of feta cheese. The kitchen’s restraint sometimes tastes a bit timid: Frites aren’t particularly crisp and mussels rest in a thin, wine-heavy broth. The wine list is, on the other hand, impeccable.