Mon-Fri, noon-3pm and 5:30pm-9:45pm; Sat, 5:30pm-9:45pm; Sun, closed
E, M at Lexington Ave.-53rd St.; 6 at 51st St.
American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
A renovation did nothing to disguise the comforting, cosseting old-world feel of this Sutton Place landmark, where tuxedo'd captains oversee tableside service. Order medalions of veal in a cream morrel mushroom sauce, or a salmon fillet molded into the shape of a petite mignon. There are lighter dishes as well, like turbot (with a lacy glaze of comté cheese) and a succession of luminous soups. Try the Floating Island for dessert, but be sure to dress in proper attire, or be banished to the back room.Prix-Fixe Menu
Three-course lunch, $32; three-course dinner, $65