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A renovation did nothing to disguise the comforting, cosseting old-world feel of this Sutton Place landmark, where tuxedo'd captains oversee tableside service. Order medalions of veal in a cream morrel mushroom sauce, or a salmon fillet molded into the shape of a petite mignon. There are lighter dishes as well, like turbot (with a lacy glaze of comté cheese) and a succession of luminous soups. Try the Floating Island for dessert, but be sure to dress in proper attire, or be banished to the back room. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Three-course lunch, $32; three-course dinner, $65