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A row of globular lights along the façade acts as a homing beacon for the neighborhood regulars. These patrons tend to be older and conservatively dressed. Where you're seated has much to do with your overall experience. In warm weather, the best tables are either in the front room, by the French doors opening onto 82nd Street, or in the back garden. On chilly nights, ask for a table in the back room, which is adorned with small tapestries and has a beamed ceiling. Avoid the small dining area next to the kitchen; its tables are too close for comfort. There's a pervasive softness here, from the lighting to the textures of the food. Amber crystals in the chandeliers cast a flattering glow. The daily soup is a vegetable velouté, while the foie gras appetizer is whipped into a delicate mousse. Slice into the rare beef fillet and it's so tender that it drapes gently onto your fork. Most dishes, such as the duck with haricots verts and lamb with a small dome of ratatouille, follow the well-worn general French path. However, there are a few forays into less traditional territory. The seared salmon with lentils, for instance, gets a hit of lime, while a boozy tiramisu shoulders its way onto the dessert menu. — Jennifer Paull

Lamb with ratatouille, $26; tiramisu, $8