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David Burke’s bustling street-level restaurants are popular in-store dining stops at Bloomingdale’s, but seasoned shoppers opt for the scenic route through housewares up the stairs to genteel Le Train Bleu. The long, narrow room emulates a 1920s French boxcar; starched linens cover two rows of tables and walls and ceiling are padded with forest-green velvet broken up by dark wood accents and round-cornered windows. The store’s signature brown bags can even be stashed in overhead metal storage racks. The menu sticks to updates on continental fare; a seemingly passé dish like liver and onions is made new with sweet Vidalias and maple pepper bacon. Creamy date-and-pistachio-studded pheasant pate balances sweet and savory flavors with the aid of fruited, vinegary Cumberland sauce. And while there wasn’t any Japanese horseradish or togarashi spice blends on the original Parisian Train Bleu, delicate cold soba noodles topped with wedges of rare tuna and wasabi aioli are a refreshing contemporary option. — Krista Garcia

Mon.—Sat., 10:30 a.m.—noon, $18

Prix-Fixe
Appetizer, entrée and dessert, $24

Pheasant pâté with dates and pistachios, $9; Japanese togarashi-spiced seared-tuna steak, $20