Le Turtle

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80 Good

Two veterans of the New York restaurant scene team up for their first restaurant together.

177 Chrystie St., New York, NY, 10002

646-918-7189

http://leturtle.fr/

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The lowdown

This reliably trendy, deceptively accomplished (and, yes, oddly named) Lower East Side bistro is a collaboration between those fabled taste-makers of the early aughts, Taavo Somer (Freeman’s) and Carlos Quirarte (the Smile). The space features all sorts of eclectic, slightly eccentric touches (reclaimed-marble-topped tables, Danish chairs by Helge Sibast, a 12-seat booth recessed into the wall that you reach by climbing a few concrete-block stairs). The quirky, not-entirely-French-themed menu was originated by the talented Greg Proechel (now of Ferris) and carries on his tradition with dishes like bowls of corn porridge topped with fresh uni from Maine, platters of braised oxtails and fried octopus tossed with sticky rice, and the famous house chicken, which during Proechel’s reign would be portaged to the table over a thatch of burning hay, but is now served with a garnish of pickled shishito peppers and crispy fingerling potatoes. The wine list is all French, with a natural focus, and overseen by former Semilla sommelier Jessie Kiefer.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

DrinksBeer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized