Le Veau d’Or

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80 Good

After 80 years in business, this unpretentious monument to French cuisine sails serenely on.

129 E. 60th St., New York, NY, 10065

212-838-8133

Known For

The lowdown

Catherine Treboux runs this venerable midtown restaurant, just north of Bloomingdale’s, as a kind of living museum to that mostly vanished era when French cuisine ruled the upper levels of the dining world in New York. The menu hasn’t change in what seems like centuries (the restaurant just turned 80 last year), and if you ask politely, Mme Treboux will point out various tables where ancient bold-face names used to dawdle over their Champagne and cigarettes, including the exact banquet in the back corner of the room where Hemingway used to sit when he dropped in for a bottle of wine (or three). The specialities of the house are the same now as they were back then — coq au vin, sole amandine, veal in its various forms (the tripe “à la mode de Caen” is legendary among old-time tripe connoisseurs), and a near-perfect rendition of that most magically French dessert of all, Île Flottante.

Adam Platt

What you need to know

Recommended DishesEscalope de veau (veal scallopini).

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized