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It's not cheap, but you won't quite believe someone will walk Italian food this good right to your door. The osso buco is rich and unctuous and even comes with a sprig of sage planted in the marrow. The spaghetti with meatballs is fresher and livelier than anything you've had at a standard red-sauce joint. The fish dishes are wonderful. Pay attention when the long list of specials is rattled off; they're always interesting. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Venetian-style bean soup, $5.75; spaghetti and meatballs, $13.95