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Longtime chef Sottha Khunn has surrendered his whisk to new top toque Pierre Schaedelin. While the chef transition has been less than smooth, as usual, it's hard to notice amid all the circus-like commotion. Who cares if the duck confit was a little dry? Even from the hinterlands of deepest Siberia—table No. 49, between the kitchen and the bar— there's no better place to view all the characters in the strange New York zoo. The new $25 prix-fixe lunch makes the circus especially appealing.

Terrine of Foie Gras "Cuit au Torchon", $35; Chateaubriand, $42; Gratinee of Maine Lobster in Casserole of Lemon Infused Pasta, $44; Paupiette of Black Sea Bass, $39.