This venue is closed.
At the rate he's going, Pino Luongo will soon have more Tuscan eateries than there are pizza parlors called Ray's. But of all of them, including his fertile Coco Pazzo chain, the restaurant with the most agreeable blending of atmosphere, design, and taste is Le Madri. Unlike his other tracts, buzzing with tension, this expansive space never forfeits its rustic nobility, no matter how busy it gets. So indulge your desire. Another espresso. Maybe a little grappa. If you're the one always in a rush, however, there are better places for you. Which is why they sell pizza by the slice. —Hal Rubenstein