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Belgian chef Alain Coumont, the globe-trotting founder of the bakery-café chain Le Pain Quotidien, bakes rolls for Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Alfred Portale, supernally buttery croissants, and the best baguettes in town. But Coumont himself remains devoted to pain au levain, a naturally fermented whole-wheat sourdough, even though it's vexingly sensitive to the vagaries of temperature and temperament.
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