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Le Rivage has the feel of a time warp. In the heart of the theater district, it’s been chugging along serving meals to pre-theater diners since 1982. The interior is simple: low lighting and furnishings that look circa 1975. The paintings covering the walls look as though they are meant to evoke old world Paris, but are more the kind of painting you might find in a French bistro theme restaurant at Disneyland. The food itself is adequate, but $35 for four courses isn’t bad if you want to fill up. Celery Remoulade, shredded strands of celeriac in a rich and tangy mustard-lemon mayonnaise, is tasty, but the chefs have realized that, and have drizzled the same dressing on not only the sardines, but also on the salads of radicchio and butter lettuce. The straightforward dishes are reliable: Sole Meuniere is moist and fresh, lightly sautéed, and comes with plain boiled new potatoes and yellow squash. A pork chop is nicely broiled, with a juicy interior, but its flourishes fall short—stewed onions are over-sweet and the rice is a plain mound of Uncle Ben’s. Unless you like chocolate, skip dessert: The chocolate mousse is not too sweet, with a hint of rum. — Lia Miller

Lunch, 11:30 a.m.—3 p.m., $25; pre-theater dinner, 3 p.m.—8 p.m., $39; dinner, after 8 p.m., $25