Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm; Fri, 11:30am-midnight; Sat, noon-midnight; Sun, noon-11pm
N, W at Broadway; M, R at Steinway St.
36th Ave. to 28th Ave., 48th St. to 21st St.
Leng is a visually enchanting restaurant where attention is paid to every detail. Thai silk pillows line banquettes facing the open kitchen, polished poured-concrete floors adorn the rear dining room, pink-lit bamboo stalks shade the back garden, and a wall of art-glass bottles demarcates the reception desk. But Leng’s magic can evaporate like an errant splash of nam pla sauce. Those glossy surfaces magnify conversation and kitchen din, the silk pillows prove anti-ergonomic, and the ‘80s pop soundtrack is too loud. Nor do Leng’s cooks quite equal its architects. Waiters tout top-priced entrees like talay gang daeng, an underseasoned, rice-heavy seafood casserole. Curries and noodles are more confidently prepared, and classic Thai appetizers are trustworthy; tom kha gai soup is richly coconutty, and yum ma-muang green mango salad nestles beside lusciously sweetened sticky rice. Leng is best approached like a first date: savor the aesthetics, follow the script, and don’t expect it to be The One.Recommended Dishes
Tom kha gai soup, $5.50; yum ma-muang salad, $9; sen mee noodles, $14; gung massaman curry, $16