This venue is closed.
Small, quirky, neighborhood restaurants like L'Entrecote have become increasingly rare in New York. The large majority have been pressured by the city's high rents and intense culinary competition to either modernize or bow out altogether. One of the few holdouts, the tiny L'Entrecote—which only seats about 20 people—has steadily built a following over the past 35 years, with owner Jean-Paul changing the place's face and authentic French cuisine little, if any, during that time. The restaurant's name means "the steak," but the Lyonnais bistro also serves fish, veal, and, occasionally, frog's legs, mostly prepared in traditional cream and wine sauces. Unlike many of New York's French restaurants, which often establish their authenticity by cramming in every possible decorative element found in Parisian cafes, there is a comfortable understatement to the décor here, with only a few Lautrec posters on the exposed-brick walls. The real charm of dining at L'Entrecote is in its lack of ambition; would rather cater to a small band of faithful, if aging, supporters—who appreciate the place even more now that fumeurs must go outside to puff on their Gauloises—than evolve into something less charming.Recommended Dishes
Pepper steak, $27.25; poached salmon, $24.75
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