Leonti

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78 Solid

The ambitious Upper West Side restaurant has a short, focused menu, filled with seasonal Northern Italian specialties.

103 W. 77th St., New York, NY, 10024

212-362-3800

http://www.leontinyc.com/

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The lowdown

There are plenty of things about this ambitious Upper West Side Italian restaurant that inspire confidence, especially for residents of its culinarily star-crossed neighborhood. These include the poshly decorated room (yes, the lighting is low and there’s plenty of white linen), the impressive pedigree of the chef and co-owner, Adam Leonti (he was chef de cuisine for many years at Marc Vetri’s famous Italian restaurant in Philadelphia), and the short, focused one-page menu, which is filled with seasonal Northern Italian specialties (Tuscan white-bean soup and wheels of stuffed rabbit in winter, for instance) and elaborate pasta creations like artichoke lasagna and house-made fettuccine folded with spoonfuls of hand-chopped wild boar ragù. But veteran big-city Italian gourmands, be warned: You won’t find much here that you haven’t seen at other high-profile destinations around town, and if you plan to make the long trek uptown, save up your pennies, because dinner doesn’t come cheap.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Insider Tips A healthy portion of Dovetail’s wine cellar survives here (that restaurant’s owner, Lewis Pell, is a partner in Leonti), but many of the 1,200 bottles will cost you.

Recommended DishesRibollita, fettuccine with wild-boar ragù, chicken “in pastella,” salt-baked branzino, tiramisu, chocolate budino

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized