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Though its owners run Abe and Arthur’s, a den of excess in the Meatpacking District, Lexington Brass will not blow your mind. It does not defy convention or push the envelope. It is a place to go in Midtown that will not disappoint as long as your expectations are moderate. The room is a lovely example of the nouveau bistro look perfected in Keith McNally's restaurants. All our old friends are there: mercuried mirrors, tufted tan leather banquettes, and, of course, subway tiles. The menu is built upon the standards: oysters, French onion soup, steak frites and roasted chicken. From there, there are unexpected twists and turns that lead all over the globe: to Asia for pork buns, to Italy for gnocchi, and to Mexico (maybe?) for tuna tartare tacos. Some of these experiments work, as do the herb and goat cheese beignets whose crispy exteriors cave in on their melted center. Others veer off course – a plate of sad Swiss chard wrapped around quinoa is bland and unappealing. Though the vibe of the place conjures vintage New York, some of the most successful items on the menu are from the South. Play it safe with a billowy pile of fried chicken and some lobster mac and cheese. — Edna Ishayik

Herb and goat cheese beignets, $9